1969 Chevy Corvette

For more discussions, question and articles check this out: 1969 Chevy Corvette

Q: Is soda blasting a good way to strip remove the paint on a 1969 Chevy Corvette?
I have a 1969 chevrolet corvette and we are in the process of restoring it. I have been researching different ways to remove the paint that is currently on the fiber glass body. Is soda blasting a good method? If you have any experience with soda blasting, what are the down sides to it? If it is a good method of paint removal, about how much would it cost to get the body soda blasted (everything except the front clip)?

A: Soda blast is a good way because it will not dig into the fiberglass. The only other way is to sand it all down by hand. Not sure of any down sides, never used it before. It will be harder to find someone that does soda blasting, its still kind new. Most places do sandblasting for around $60 to $90 an hour. So it could be expensive.

Q: what are the best spark plugs i can get for my 1969 chevy corvette with a 350 engine?
i have it 40 over with flat top JE pistons and a bigger cam with a wiend intake and a 600cfm holly carb

A: I started using ACDelco R45ts in all my chevy engines years ago, and have not found a better all round plug. You may need to adjust the heat range of the plug to better fit your engine.
http://www.acdelco.com/parts/sparkplugs/identification.jsp
I’m guessing you are running a HEI ignition. If you haven’t already done it, you will get a little more power if you use a high voltage coil and module in the distributor.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D850030&autoview=sku

Q: What is the best way to remove paint from the body of a 1969 Corvette?
We have a 1969 Chevy Corvette and we’re in the process of restoring it. What is the best way to remove paint from the body? It is fiberglass. I’ve heard of people media blasting, sanding, stripping, etc. Whats the best and SAFEST way to remove paint from this fiberglass body? Another quick question, what color is the raw fiberglass on these cars? also if any of you have any pictures of good information that we could use to help us along the way we would really appreciate it.
what about soda blasting?

A: Sanding. Media Blasting since fiberglass is so soft, will totally screw up the surface as the media will not be able to tell the difference between paint and fiberglass. Sanding. Stripping solutions could also mess with the integrity of the fiberglass and give you more problems than you imagined. Also once you get it stripped completely, contact a good body shop that works with fiberglass, or a Corvette shop if there is one in your area. You will need to rework any areas with Spider Cracks, and older fiberglass gets dried out and needs to be reworked before you prime and paint it again. In other words, check with some shops for sure to see what you need to do to restore the life back into the fiberglass.
It is usually white or kind of cream in color. If you have black areas or anything like that, someone has probably patched it with marine materials.
I would suggest finding a Corvette Club near you and contacting them, and you will be surprised at the pointers they can give you, and where they can refer you to find other things. Parts, etc. You might be interested to know that the ‘69 also offered Seven (7) engine options. They were:

Base Engine: 350 cid with 300 horsepower @ 4800 rpm, Rochester four-barrell
Optional Engine #1: [RPO L46] 350 cid with 350 horsepower, , Rochester four-barrell
Optional Engine #2: [RPO L36] 427 cid with 390 horsepower @ 5400 rpm, Holley four-Barrell Carburetor
Optional Engine #3: [RPO L68] 427 cid with 400 horsepower, three Holley two-Barrell Carburetors
Optional Engine #4: [RPO L71] 427 cid with 435 horsepower @ 5800 rpm, three Holley two-Barrell Carburetors
Optional Engine #5: [RPO L88] 427 cid with 560 horsepower @ 6400 rpm, Holley four-Barrell Carburetor
Optional Engine #6: [RPO L89] 427 cid with 435 horsepower, Holley four-Barrell Carburetor
Optional Engine #7: [RPO LZL1] 427 cid with 430 horsepower, Holley four-Barrell Carburetor aluminum manifold

Q: I have a 1969 Chevy Corvette with a ZZ4 crate engine. What is the best Transmission for the ZZ4?
Here is the info on the engine…..

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/ZZ4-Crate-Engine-350CI-355HP-HO-with-Aluminum-Heads-24502609-P4C2.aspx

I want a Transmission with Overdrive but still would go for one without it…….anybody help please!!

A: Manual or Automatic?

For an Auto I’d go with a 700 R4. A T200 may work as well – you may want to check overall dimensions when compared to a Turbo 400 or 350 to see if it fits in the Vette. The other option for OD is a T350 or T400 with a gear vendor’s OD (not sure if it fits in a vette though). In any case get a good shop to do a perfomance build on it.

For a manual – Richmond 5 speed. Without OD Super T10.

Good luck – sounds like a cool project.

Q: i have a 1969 chevy impala convertible with an original L48 350ci/300hp corvette engine, how rare is this?
I know how much this car is worth without this engine but I want to know if this was an engine option that did not occur much in the impala in ‘69.

A: Perhaps one of the most lovable collectors items today. We have a few in our country with the original paint, interior, engines and gear boxes and very carefully maintained. I cannot confirm the engine on one of the cars, since it has been a long time when we talked to the owner about him selling the car, but I recollect it was a V-8. The white wall tyres and covers were original as well. In 1992 he wanted US$ 20,000/- and I am sure someone must have paid him that amount.

Q: Combination Procharger and Supercharger?
I was wondering if stacking a root supercharger (such as a Weiand but not specifically) with a centrifugal supercharger (Procharger specifically) would have any advantage in increasing horse power. My thinking here is it could perform much like a sequential turbo charged system. With the exception that both would be running at the same time no matter the engine speed.

Current engine is a naturally aspired 1969 Chevy corvette V8 7.0L 427 CID w/ a dual 450 carb system. Stock pistons and cam.

A: it would cause to much parasitic power loss to be practical, you would also probably have to much static compression for the engine to handle the added boost

Q: 1969 Chevy 307 out of a boat?
I was wondering how much horsepower a 307 out of a boat would have with longtube headers, Corvette intake 4 barrel car with a spacer and different heads?

A: well the original 307 started at 200hp @ 4600r.p.m. and 300lbs.ft @ 2400r.p.m. i don’t know how much the other parts would effect it but thats the base all stock

Q: What year did Chevy put a 6 numbered odometer in there cars.?
I am thinking about buying an older Chevy Corvette.

In between 1969 and 1982.

But I am concerned that all the odometers that I have seen all have 5 digits on it and because the cars are so old there is practically no way of knowing the actual mileage.

My question is what year did Chevy start putting 6 numbered odometers in their Corvettes and why did they ever put 5 numbered ones in there in the first place.

Was it because they never intended for the cars to last over 100,000 miles?

What is the maintanence like for buying an older car like that?

If it needs parts are they expensive and hard to find?

Atleast answer the odometer question if anything else and if possible please provide a refference because I have looked in every search engine I can think of and can’t find the answer.
Good answers so far but I would like to point out that services like carfax only go back to like 1990 and cars before that dont have enough numbers on there VIN number.

So that wont help.

I will simplify the question.

What was the first year that the Chevy Corvette got a 6 numbered odomoter as standered.
Also about the law, that dosent apply to cars over 15 years old.

It is by Federal law to be said “Miles Exempt”

Meaning Miles Unknown.

A cleaned up 220,000 mile car might look like a 120,000 mile car and you can’t tell because the odomoter only says 20,000 because it only has 5 numbers and not 6.

A: I would also have to say late 80’s early 90’s, i have a 77 and 87 chevy pickup, they both have 5 digit.

Q: I DARE YOU TO ANSWER THIS CHEVY QUESTIOn?
I am thinking about buying an older Chevy Corvette.

In between 1969 and 1982.

But I am concerned that all the odometers that I have seen all have 5 digits on it and because the cars are so old there is practically no way of knowing the actual mileage.

My question is what year did Chevy start putting 6 numbered odometers in their Corvettes and why did they ever put 5 numbered ones in there in the first place.

Was it because they never intended for the cars to last over 100,000 miles?

What is the maintanence like for buying an older car like that?

If it needs parts are they expensive and hard to find?

Atleast answer the odometer question if anything else and if possible please provide a refference because I have looked in every search engine I can think of and can’t find the answer.

Services like carfax only go back to like 1990 and cars before that dont have enough numbers on there VIN number.
The law about disclosing miles does not apply to cars over 15 years old so they would be sold as “Mileage Exempt”

Or rather Miles unknown.
I have asked this question once before and did not get the answer needed so I dare you to answer this question.
A cleaned up 220,000 mile car might look like a 120,000 mile car and you can’t tell because the odomoter only says 20,000 because it only has 5 numbers and not 6.

A: Gm used the 5 number odometers until 85/ 86. After that they started converting the cars to six numbers odometers, yet some remained 5 til the mid-90s.

Yes, buying parts for a Corvette is going to be expensive just due to the fact its a sports car. If its a mechanical part, do your resource and get the same part for say a Impala, same part, but don’t have the Vette hype to it.

There are Corvette clubs you can join that the members knows the VINs for every Vette built and what options came on it and can help you document the car. Corvettes are the all American sports car so theres a strong following with them, any info you need for one can easily be found online or though a national club.

Q: What are the advantages of a Dual Carburetor System?
I plan on purchasing a 1969 Chevy Corvette V8 7.0L 427 CID. I was wondering if a dual carburetor has any advantage. Looking around the only advantage I could find is aesthetics. I heard about all of the tuning difficulties and the disadvantages but is there any advantage, further more is there any advantage dual carbing with a supercharger specifically a procharger???
The engine will not be stock for long the intention here is build a street/strip car.
Fuel economy is second to performance here, as I will not be using the vehicle for everyday driving.

A: For a large capacity engine like that, one large carburettor (950cfm or 1150cfm) tends to be less efficient at accurately metering the fuel/air ratio at small throttle openings, because the airspeed through the carb isn’t high enough to ensure extra-fine atomisation of the large quantity fuel being pulled through the bigger jets.

You can get better fuel economy and better running at low revs and small throttle openings by running two smaller carbs (2×475cfm or 2×600cfm) which gives you the same wide open throttle airflow, but with better running and fuel economy everywhere else.

Your best bet for tuneability, smoothest running, easiest starting, lower fuel consumption, maximum possible horsepower and most compact installation is to go with an aftermarket E.F.I. setup.

Q: 1969 Yenko Camaro vs 1969 boss 429 mustang who would win in a drag?
you know (the Yenko Built by Don Yenko) with the 450hp 427 Corvette Inspired Engine while the boss has its 429 which had i believe 375hp obvious the Yenko Camaro Would kill the 69′boss due to the Yenko Camaro Having more Horsepower im more of a Chevy guy anyways i have Camaros the only ford i would ever drive is probably 1967 Shelby GT500 or a New 2007 Shelby GT500 than that the Camaro/Corvette will kill any ford even the Shelby GT500’s 67′ or 2007since the Z28 and or SS Camaro’s are nearly identical to the Corvette in fact the only thing is that GM/Chevy detunes the Camaro so that it is not 100% Corvette if it wasnt for that The Camaro Would be exactly a Corvette base and or Z06 but anyways who would win between a 1969 SYC Yenko Camaro 427 450hp vs a 1969 boss 429 mustang 375hp in a straight drag race?

A: Yenko for sure!!!!!

Q: So i am really into cars and in the future i want to drag race so some thoughts on what car i should use?
i am 17 currently and i have a 1966 el camino and its pretty sweet but i want to race a 1968 corvette, a 1978 corvette, a 1969 chevelle, or a 72 nova as you can see i am a chevy kinda guy so any ideas???

A: Well, if you have money for ‘vettes, good for you.
That being said, you can drag race anything. You are only going to race agains other cars with similar qualifying times. They would not put a VW jetta against a Viper.
So, it doesn’t matter what you race. I would use the car that is least expensive to repair. Dragging with a ‘Vette kinda ruins the ‘Vette. Drag racers are all gutted inside and stuff. Use a beater car with a hot motor.

Q: Chevrolet brand small block intake manifold question.?
The 1965 Corvette 365 hp 327 engine had a completely different standard Chevy aluminum intake than the 1969 Z28 302 Comaro. Explain why. I realize the carburetors were different as the 327 had a 580 cfm. Holley The 302 had the 780 cfm. Correct me if I’m wrong I think the camshafts had the same specs.

A: This is an easy one. The Corvette didn’t have the space between the hood and the carburetor, that the 302 Z-28 did, so they went with a more high rise type intake to make more torque. The height of the carburetor, the space between the hood, and the style of the air cleaner, all play a major role in how much rise can be on the intake.
The lifts were very similar on these two cam shafts, but where the difference is, is in the duration. They were both solid lifter cams, but by increasing the duration of the lift, they were able to get much more air into the engine, thus more fuel, thus a larger cfm carburetor.
Glad to help you, Good luck!!!

Q: PLEASE HELP! I need to know the cost of the following cars when they were brand new?
1900 Haynes
1902 Waltham Orient Roundabout Car
1903 Toledo 18 hp Touring Car
1958 Plymouth Fury
1957 Plymouth Fury
1900 Haynes-Apperson Six Carriage & Roundabout Car
1957 chevy
1958 imapala, and corvette
1963 limited edition thunderbird landau
1970 dodge challenger
1970 Caprice
1970 chevelle SS 396
1969 Camaro SS
1966/1967 cadillac deville

If anyone knows what any of these cars went for in US the year they were made, please let me know. i really appreciate it.

A: I have no idea what the 1900s cars cost but I was around in the 1950s. A 1958 or 1957 Plymouth Fury ran about $2,000 with normal equipment. A 57 Chevrolet about the same. In fact the dealers were advertising the stripped down model for $1,795. My Dad had a 58 Chevrolet and paid maybe $2,200. The Corvette was a lot more expensive, maybe $4,500. By the early 1970’s prices had climbed to about $3,500 for the cars you have listed. The 1966-67 Cadillac was about the most expensive car around and maybe cost $5,000 at the most. The Thunderbird was the same.

Q: what kind of exaust should i choses please help!!?
ok I wanna know every thing there is to know about my exhaust. I have a 1988 iroc z Chevy camaro its a 305 and has single exhaust it has a cross flow muffler. I want to change it to dual exhaust. I have looked at everything what I have consider the most so far is flow master super 40 exhaust, I have also looked in to Boral and glass pack and a lil magna flows I have seen some x pipe set ups but I don’t understand how they work. I have ben listing to clips after clips on you tube and flow master website for about 4 months now and cant decide what to do I want answers no answer can be to long I wanna know everything you know and all your opions. I also wanna know what the cost is I should be looking at, and the price for everything…. seeing how I have single exhaust right now that means I should get a dual exhaust manifold dose it matter what kind I get…. OH YEA!!! I haven’t mentioned but I want my car to sound like a 1973 corvette stingray or a 1969 camaro I want that deep muscle car sound . yea u know that I can stop at a street light and pop it n neutral and barley hit the gas and the guy beside me is like man he has a nice car. I don’t want that bad low grade sounding back fire when I let off the rev though.. so please tell me what I should get and as of right now price doesn’t matter I just wanna know what its grade A stuff and what is complete trash ill post additional stuff if u need me to…

A: your best bet is to go to a shop that bends their own pipe and get a dual exhaust system made for your car as they will custom bend it and fit everything, you can have them put in a X pipe or an H pipe whichever one you choose, the X is better than the H pipe as far as better flow goes, you need to figure on what size exhaust pipes you want to put on it such as 21/4″ or 2.5″ and then order your X or H pipe and your mufflers from summit racing or Jeggs, I would suggest flowmaster super 44 mufflers if you want that musclecar sound and get offset in the front of the mufflers and center outlets on the back of the mufflers, this will make a nice system that will rock.

Related Posts

• 1985 Corvette
• 1978 Corvette
• Chevrolet Corvette
• 1965 Corvette
• 1963 Chevy Corvette
• 2000 Corvette
• 1979 Corvette
• 1967 Corvette
• 1982 Corvette
• 1957 Chevy Corvette